The Old Town Square tree and market, svařák, nativity scenes, Prague Castle in winter and a dusk walk over Charles Bridge: four days in Prague at Christmas.
Václav Havel Airport connects to the center by bus 119 to Nádraží Veleslavín and then metro line A, in about 35 minutes, so most visitors are dropping bags well before lunch. Check the PID app for the current airport bus route, and buy a ticket before boarding: in 2026 a 90-minute ticket is 46 CZK in the PID Lítačka app or 50 CZK on paper, valid on the bus and the metro. Daylight is short in December, with sunset shortly after 4 PM, so aim to reach Old Town Square by early afternoon.
🚌 ~35 min bus + metro from the airport 💵 ~€2 (46 CZK in the app, 50 CZK paper) 🕐 Plan around your landing time, since it is dark by about 4 PMThe organizer lists the Old Town Square Christmas market for 28 November 2026 to 6 January 2027, and Prague City Tourism gives daily hours of 10:00 to 22:00, so check the official dates. Stalls fill the square below Týn Church around a large lit tree, and a carved wooden nativity (betlém) stood among them in December 2025. Order svařák (mulled wine) or medovina (warm mead), but treat trdelník as a snack, not a tradition: the pastry is of Slovak and Hungarian origin and only became a Prague tourist treat in the 21st century. The real Czech Christmas sweets are the cookies called vánoční cukroví, which come up on Day 4. Svařák cost CZK 100 for 2 dl on the square in 2024.
🚶 Central, walkable from most Old Town hotels 💵 Free to wander, ~€4 per svařák (CZK 100 in 2024) 🕐 Late morning, when stalls open at 10:00, and again after darkThe Astronomical Clock's twelve apostles appear every hour, and Prague City Tourism lists the show from 8:00 to 23:00. During the market the tree's light show runs daily at 16:30, 17:30 and then every hour to 21:30, so catch one of those shows, then wander the surrounding lanes for a first Czech dinner of goulash and a local pilsner. The crowd under the clock is thickest in the evening, so keep bags zipped and in front of you.
🚶 On Old Town Square itself 💵 Free to watch, ~€12 dinner 🕐 Clock on the hour, tree light show at :30 from 16:30 to 21:30Prague Castle's grounds are open 6:00 to 22:00, and from 1 November to 31 March the historic buildings (the Old Royal Palace, St. George's Basilica and Golden Lane) are open 9:00 to 16:00. St. Vitus Cathedral is open Monday to Saturday 9:00 to 16:00 and from 12:00 on Sundays, with last entry at 15:40. The Royal Garden, Stag Moat and South Gardens are closed from November to February, so plan around the buildings and courtyards. On 24 December 2025 all castle visitor facilities were closed and the cathedral opened only in the afternoon on 25 and 26 December, so check hrad.cz for the 2026 holiday hours.
🚋 Tram 22 to Pražský hrad 💵 ~€18 (CZK 450) main circuit ticket, check current 🕐 Right at the 9 AM opening, last cathedral entry 15:40This row of miniature 16th-century cottages, once home to castle marksmen and goldsmiths, is part of the same circuit ticket, and the buildings close at 16:00 in winter, so go in the early afternoon. In 2025 the castle also ran a free Christmas Stroll with three stops: an enchanted forest with animals on the Riding School Terrace, a Bethlehem scene in the Chapel of the Holy Cross, and craft workshops in Mocker's House on St. George's Square. It ran from 29 November to 4 January and was closed on 24 December. Check hrad.cz to see whether it returns in 2026.
🚶 Within the castle grounds 💵 Golden Lane is in the circuit ticket, the Christmas Stroll was free in 2025 🕐 Early afternoon, since the buildings close at 16:00Walk down from the castle via Nerudova street and cross the 14th-century Charles Bridge as dusk falls, shortly after 4 PM in mid-December. During Advent a lamplighter lights the bridge's gas lamps by hand each evening, and Prague City Tourism lists this from 30 November to 23 December, so check the start time. On Nerudova, the Church of Our Lady of Perpetual Help and St. Cajetan showed an old Italian nativity scene in December 2024, worth a look if the church is open. The bridge is crowded in the evening, so keep valuables in front of you.
🚶 ~15 min downhill walk from the castle 💵 Free to cross 🕐 Around dusk, shortly after 4 PM in mid-DecemberThe Maisel, Pinkas, Klausen and Spanish synagogues and the Old Jewish Cemetery trace centuries of Prague's Jewish history on one Jewish Museum ticket, and the Spanish Synagogue's Moorish interior is the most striking stop on the circuit. The museum is open every day except Saturdays (which includes 26 December 2026) and Jewish holidays, from 9:00 to 16:30 between 18 October and 31 December 2026, and 9:00 to 14:00 on 24 December. Ticket sales stop 30 minutes before closing. The Old-New Synagogue is run separately by the Jewish Community, so check its hours and ticket.
🚶 ~10 min walk from Old Town Square 💵 ~€25 (CZK 600) Jewish Museum ticket, valid for 3 opening days 🕐 Right after the 9 AM opening, since daylight is shortA relaxed hour on the water gives a different view of Charles Bridge, the castle hill and the Old Town waterfront, and it is a warm break from the cold. Prague Boats says all its boats are heated and that it runs sightseeing cruises through the winter. On 24 December, Prague City Tourism lists only the lunch and sightseeing cruises, with no evening cruises.
🚤 Heated boats from the Čech Bridge pier on the Old Town riverbank 💵 From ~€14 (CZK 350) for a 1-hour cruise 🕐 Early afternoon, before the light fades after 4 PMCross into the quieter, palace-lined streets below the castle. In December nativity scenes (betlémy) stand outside churches here, such as the painted wooden Three Kings and camel photographed outside the Church of Our Lady Victorious, home of the Infant Jesus of Prague, on Karmelitská street in 2019. Churches and the Klementinum's Mirror Chapel also host Christmas concerts, so check the current programme and book ahead. For dinner in a courtyard tavern, ask whether fish soup and fried carp, the traditional Christmas Eve dishes, are on the menu.
🚶 Across Charles Bridge or the Legion Bridge 💵 ~€14 dinner 🕐 After 6 PM, once the day-trip crowds thin outA short funicular ride up Petřín Hill leads to a miniature Eiffel-style lookout tower, with the red-roofed city laid out below on a clear morning. The funicular reopened on 22 September 2026 after a two-year closure and costs CZK 100 a ride, and it is included in 24-hour and 72-hour PID tickets. The tower is open 10:00 to 18:00 in November and December, with an early-bird 50% discount in the first hour after opening (not on 25 December or 1 January). Over Christmas 2025 it opened 10:00 to 15:00 on 24 December and 11:00 to 18:00 on 25 December, and the funicular may not run on some public holidays, so check current times.
🚡 Funicular from Újezd 💵 ~€4 funicular (CZK 100), ~€10 tower (CZK 250) 🕐 At the 10 AM opening for the half-price first hourHead back down for the second main market, in the lower part of Wenceslas Square near Můstek, which shares the Old Town Square dates and 10:00 to 22:00 hours. Look for vánoční cukroví, the Czech Christmas cookies: vanilla crescents, jam-filled Linzers and beehive cookies, often made with rum or egg liqueur. Pastry shops such as Cukrář Skála and Myšák sell them, and Skála's boxes sell out before Christmas, so order ahead. Garnet jewelry, Bohemian crystal and wooden toys are the other usual souvenirs. In the days before 24 December, street sellers also sell live carp from tanks, and Prague City Tourism names Republic Square as a place to see this.
🚶 Back to the Old Town and Wenceslas Square, metro to Můstek 💵 Varies, ~€25 typical souvenir budget 🕐 Early afternoon, ahead of departureThe same bus-and-metro combination that brought you in runs back to the airport, so budget about 35 to 45 minutes depending on where you're staying. The Airport Express bus from the Main Railway Station costs 200 CZK since January 2026. Check the PID timetable if you fly on 24, 25 or 26 December, and allow extra time in snow or fog.
🚌 ~35 to 45 min bus + metro to the airport 💵 ~€2 (46 CZK in the app, 50 CZK paper) 🕐 Leave at least 3 hrs before an international flightThe 2025 Christmas Stroll at Prague Castle, with its enchanted forest, Bethlehem scene and craft workshops, had free admission and ran from 29 November to 4 January. Check hrad.cz for the 2026 programme, and keep the paid circuit ticket for the cathedral, palace, basilica and Golden Lane.
In a December 2024 price survey, mulled wine cost CZK 100 for 2 dl on Old Town Square, CZK 100 to 120 on Wenceslas Square, CZK 80 at náměstí Míru and CZK 65 at Mariánské náměstí. Prices change each year, so check current, but the smaller markets were cheaper.
The Petřín funicular is CZK 100 on its own and is included in 24-hour and 72-hour tickets. A 24-hour ticket costs 140 CZK in the PID Lítačka app (150 CZK on paper), so validating one on Day 4 morning covers the funicular and your airport ride that evening.
Prague City Tourism lists markets at náměstí Míru (20 November to 24 December), Republic Square (25 November to 24 December), Kampa (3 December to 4 January) and Havel's Market (25 November to 6 January). They are listed as daily 10:00 to 20:00 except Havel's Market, and Peace Square is often described as the more local, relaxed one.
On the evening of 5 December, St. Nicholas (Mikuláš), an angel and a devil visit children, and Old Town Square is the main place to see them in Prague. The day is not a public holiday, and guides place the main gathering in the early evening, so check current details.
Jakub Jan Ryba's Czech Christmas Mass, sung in Czech, is a December staple. St. Vitus Cathedral held a free performance on 16 December 2025, and Prague City Tourism lists an open-air Christmas Mass on Old Town Square at 21:00 on 24 December. Check current schedules.